It was a quick trip- there and back in all of 30 hours- but I was fortunate enough to spend Saturday in Vancouver, BC. I flew up there with a couple friends ostensibly to see the Portland Timbers play the Vancouver Whitecaps at BC Place. More than anything, it was a boy’s weekend and an excuse to drink our way around Vancouver. Mission Accomplished…and the Timbers won 3-0, which made the trip that much more satisfying.
I’ve always loved Canada, and Vancouver is one of my favorite places in the world, though I don’t spend nearly enough time there. It’s like San Francisco without the crowds and the frenetic energy. If I could live anywhere I wanted and money was no object, Vancouver would be right at the top of my list. It’s beautiful, cosmopolitan, and interesting. The climate’s temperate (if a bit on the damp side). Best of all, the people who live there are some of the most unfailingly polite, courteous, and thoroughly decent folks you’ll find anywhere.
We arrived at our hotel about noon. Kickoff wasn’t until 7.30, so my traveling companions and I decided to spend some time bar hopping in Gastown. Two of the three of us were wearing our Timbers kit, and the third was wearing a Timbers t-shirt, so it was pretty clear we weren’t locals. I’ve done the same thing in Seattle and been hassled a fair bit for it (most of it good natured and largely devoid of malevolence). As we wandered through Gastown, though, I was stunned at the number of people who not only acknowledged us, but were exceedingly kind and polite in doing so. These were Whitecaps supporters being nice to us- “Good luck tonight, eh?”…or variations on that theme. For someone used to a rivalry with an unpleasant edge to it, this was something altogether different and refreshing.
After the game, it was more of the same. As we left BC Place, I couldn’t keep track of the number of people who congratulated us on our side’s convincing victory. To a person, they were unfailingly kind and polite- almost disconcertingly so. I’ve been to a Timbers-Sounders match at Century Link Field in Seattle, and I’m here to tell you that nothing similar would EVER happen there. Not that I don’t love Seattle- I truly do- but some Sounders fans can be dicks- not all of them, certainly, but enough to be noticeable. ‘Course, they probably would say the same thing about Timbers fans…and not without justification. The rivalry between Portland and Seattle can be pretty intense, especially on a soccer pitch. It’s not Man U-Man City, but it’s about as close as you’re going to find in the U.S. When you consider that the tifo raised by the Timbers Army at the last Timbers-Sounders match showed Seattle burning…well, you get the idea. There’s not a lot of love lost between Portland and our arrogant, self-superior neighbors three hours up I-5 (Unless the Seahawks are playing; then we LOVE Seattle. That’s another story for another time.).
We found a bar near BC Place after the game and ended up sharing a table with a half-dozen Whitecaps fans (Imagine Manchester United and Manchester City fans sharing a few friendly brews after a match? Unlikely to say the least, eh?). As we left to head for another bar, yet more Whitecaps fans greeted and congratulated us, several times joining us in chants of “WE ALL HATE SEATTLE!!” If nothing else, we have that in common.
Even the next morning as we walked to breakfast, people smiled at us and greeted us warmly. As Americans used to expecting a minimum of rancor and discontent in a strange city, it was odd but refreshing. At the risk of sounding corny, it was almost enough to renew my faith in humanity. Sure, I imagine that Vancouver has their share of assholes, malcontents, and unpleasant personalities…but we certainly didn’t encounter any, and we talked to a lot of people during our 30 hours there.
Since the Timbers play twice in Vancouver each year, I now have a great reason to head back. I probably shouldn’t spend too much time there, though; I’d probably decide to emigrate.
